Kyushu Road Trip

Ozu — Gasshozanso Villa (臥龍山荘) & Café

We left Ashizuri Cape at dawn, with Ozu (大洲) as our first stop. Designated an Important Cultural Property, Gasshozanso Villa (臥龍山荘) was built by wealthy merchant Kawachi Torajiro over 20 years during the Meiji era. Perched on a cliff above the Hiji River, the sukiya-style architecture and its immaculately maintained garden are breathtaking. The moss-covered rocks and early summer maples created a serene stillness that made it easy to forget the busy pace of travel. Afterward, we stopped at Aoi CAFE for a strawberry parfait and latte — a perfect way to soak in the relaxed atmosphere of this castle-town.

Shokujidokoro London & Doya Market

We headed to Shokujidokoro London (お食事処ロンドン) in search of Yawatahama's soul food: chanpon (ちゃんぽん). Unlike Nagasaki's version, the local style features a light broth made from chicken bones, bonito, and kelp — one of 29 chanpon shops that line the streets of this city. The bowl was gentle and satisfying, with thick noodles tangled in a heap of vegetables. After lunch we browsed Doya Market (どーや市場), a direct-sale seafood market right next to the fish auction. With 400–500 varieties of fresh catch on display, we grabbed a few treats to enjoy on the ferry crossing.

Yawatahama → Beppu Ferry

We crossed the Seto Inland Sea aboard the Uwajima Transport (宇和島運輸) ferry. From the 4th-deck observation area, the sight of terraced fields and a sinking sun was nothing short of stunning. Out on the open deck, a sea breeze cooled our skin as the islands of the Seto Inland Sea turned golden in the dusk. We cracked open jakoten (fried fish cakes) and local snacks below deck and thoroughly enjoyed every minute of the 2-hour-50-minute voyage.

Toyoken (東洋軒) — Birthplace of Beppu Toriten

The very place where toriten (鶏天) — Beppu's iconic chicken tempura — was born. We drove straight here from the ferry terminal. The chicken is fried to a delicate crisp and enjoyed with ponzu (citrus soy sauce) in true Beppu fashion. As the undisputed king of Oita B-grade gourmet, it more than lived up to the hype and shook off the fatigue of a long day of travel in one bite.

Oka Castle Ruins (岡城跡) — Castle in the Sky

Known as the model for Taki Rentaro's famous song "Kojo no Tsuki" (Moonlight over the Ruined Castle), Oka Castle is a sight to behold. The nozurazumi (natural stone) walls following the sharp mountain ridgeline are breathtaking, and on a clear day you can see all the way to Mt. Aso. This sky-high ruin on a hilltop in Bungo Taketa carries a palpable weight of history in every stone. Standing alone on the ramparts with the wind at my face, I felt the passage of a thousand years wash over me.

Harajiri Falls (原尻の滝) — The Niagara of the East

About 120 meters wide and 20 meters tall, this horseshoe-shaped waterfall earns its nickname "the Niagara of the East." The contrast between the surrounding rice paddies and the sheer force of the falls creates a surprisingly unique landscape. Standing on the suspension bridge just meters from the cascade, you feel the raw power of the water. Visiting during GW when the greenery is at its freshest, the mix of mist and the scent of young leaves made this a scene I won't soon forget.

Takachiho Gorge (高千穂峡) Rental Boat → Amanoiwato Shrine

We had reserved a rowboat in advance and took to the waters of Takachiho Gorge (高千穂峡). Sheer basalt cliffs rise on both sides, and Manai Falls (真名井の滝) tumbles down between them — a view that no photo can fully capture. After the boat, we walked the riverside path to see Manai Falls up close, then headed to Amanoiwato Shrine (天岩戸神社) and Ama-no-Yasukawara (天安河原). In the large rocky cave, thousands of cairns stacked by visitors and the cool, hushed air created an unmistakably mystical atmosphere.

Takachiho Yokagura (高千穂夜神楽) Night Dance

Every night at 8 p.m., the Kagura Hall at Takachiho Shrine (高千穂神社) comes alive with the Yokagura (夜神楽) performance — four dances drawn from Japanese mythology, including the legend of Amanoiwato (天岩戸), performed over about an hour. Watching this ancient performing art up close, passed down across the generations, you feel the sacred spirit of Takachiho deep in your bones. Under the flickering torchlight, surrounded by Japan's oldest legends, this was a night unlike any other.

Tsujunkyo Bridge (通潤橋) — National Treasure

Japan's largest stone arch aqueduct bridge, designated a National Treasure in 2023. Built in the Edo period by engineer Futa Yasunosuke to deliver irrigation water to farmers suffering from drought, it still functions as an agricultural waterway to this day. The silhouette of the arch framed against the surrounding pastoral landscape was especially beautiful in the soft morning light.

Yanagawa (柳川) River Cruise — Donko Boat

The donko boat (どんこ舟) river cruise is the signature experience of the "water city" of Yanagawa (水郷柳川). Steered with a single pole by a skilled boatman who sings and narrates along the way, the boat drifts slowly through the old castle moats. Over about 70 minutes, weeping willows trail into the water, carp glide beneath the surface, and time itself seems to slow down. After the cruise, we had a quick lunch in town before pushing on to Hakata.

Torikawa Suikyo (とりかわ 粋恭)

We wrapped up our Hakata night at Torikawa Suikyo (とりかわ 粋恭) with plate after plate of torikawa — Hakata's legendary chicken skin skewers. The skin is rolled and wound around a skewer, then slow-grilled over charcoal until the outside is gloriously crispy while the inside stays juicy and collagen-rich. A splash of Tabasco is the Hakata way to finish it off. With a cold beer in hand and skewers piling up, it was the perfect send-off for nine unforgettable days exploring Kyushu.