Setouchi Journey
~ Onomichi · Tomonoura · Kasaoka · Kurashiki — 2 Days with Gemini AI ~
Full Itinerary
Based on a Gemini-generated plan — a 2-day traverse of the Setouchi coast
The "Onomichi-Kasaoka Plan" by Gemini
This itinerary is based on a plan created by Gemini AI. Compare it with the actual diary below.
Arriving at Onomichi Station
After leaving luggage at Daiwa Roynet Hotel Fukuyama, just 20 minutes on the JR Sanyo Line — and stepping off at Onomichi Station, the Onomichi Channel spreads out right before your eyes as you pass through the ticket gate. The scent of salt air, calm light on the water, and Mukaishima floating across the strait. A city said to take its name from the "long narrow town running along the mountain's tail," Onomichi flourished as the foremost trading port of the Seto Inland Sea from the medieval era. With almost no flatland, squeezed between mountains and the channel, temples, stone walls, and houses are packed into a limited space — an urban structure certified as Japan's very first "Japan Heritage" site in 2015. Known as a "City of Film" through director Nobuhiko Obayashi's works "Tenkousei" and "The Girl Who Leapt Through Time," Onomichi wears many faces: literature, cinema, and cats.
🚃 20 min from Fukuyama · Japan's First Japan Heritage Port Town
Onomichi Ramen — Ichibakan
The origins of Onomichi ramen trace back to early Showa-era street cart "Chinese noodles." The soup base is built from dried sardines ("iriko") from the Seto Inland Sea, combined with chicken and pork bones — the sardines, raised in the calm inland sea, are tender and lend a refined sweetness to the broth. Minced pork back-fat is floated on top, transforming the light soy sauce soup into a richly layered and unique flavor. Ichibakan's soup, blended from two types of soy sauce for added depth, topped with a soft-boiled marinated egg, was the perfectly satisfying bowl to start this trip.
🍜 Iriko × Back Fat — Soy Soup Born from the Port of Onomichi
Onomichi Stroll — Strait Views · Back Alleys · Cat Pudding
After lunch, take the Senkoji Ropeway (~3 min) up to the 144m summit. The panoramic view of the Onomichi Channel and Mukaishima below is one of the gifts from this park, named one of Japan's Top 100 Cherry Blossom Spots. Descending via the "Literary Path" reveals poems by 25 writers — Fumiko Hayashi, Naoya Shiga, Shiki Masaoka — carved into natural stones. Naoya Shiga lived here from 1912–1914 and drafted his novel "A Dark Night's Passing" in this city. Into the back alleys below, narrow stone-paved lanes evoke the films of Obayashi. In Higashidocho's "Cat Lane," beckoning cat statues dot the way alongside gallery-shops in renovated old houses. Finally, a "Onomichi Cat Pudding" — milk pudding in a cat-labeled jar — melted away the fatigue of the slopes.
🐈 Literature · Film · Cats — The Essence of the Hill Town
Pan-ya Koro (Bakery)
A small bakery, "Koro," opened in 2011 in a corner of the Onomichi Hondori shopping arcade. Committed to long fermentation and slow-proofing of its dough to draw out the full flavor of the wheat, the shop lines about 70 varieties on its shelves each day, with chewy bagels among its signature items. Lines form before opening, and many repeat customers make the trip from out of prefecture. Though already full from lunch, the aroma of bread pulled me in, and before I knew it, something was in my hand. Walking along the channel with bread in hand — the classic Onomichi travel style came naturally.
🥐 Long Fermentation · ~70 Varieties · Onomichi's Signature Bakery
Tomonoura — Taicho-ro & Joya-to
Tomonoura, a port town that thrived as a "tide-waiting harbor," has a 1,300-year history sung in the Man'yoshu poetry anthology. The stone steps (gangi), lighthouse (joya-to), wharf, careening ground, and harbor-master's office built in the Edo period survive here together — nowhere else in Japan. The view of Senyojima island and the Seto Sea from the guest hall "Taicho-ro" of Fukuzenji Temple was praised by Korean royal envoys as "Nitto-daiichi-keisho" — "the finest scenery in the land of the rising sun." And just as that phrase suggests — the sea framed through the carved transom was serene, breathtakingly beautiful. The port's symbol, the Joya-to lighthouse, built in 1859, stands 12.1m tall — the largest harbor lighthouse in Japan. In 1867, Ryoma Sakamoto stayed here ~4 days negotiating the "Iroha-maru Incident." Director Hayao Miyazaki spent about a month here developing "Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea." In the reddening light before dusk, the magnetic pull of this port town — drawing people across centuries — seeped in slowly.
🏮 Man'yoshu · Ryoma · Ponyo — A Harbor Keeping 1,300 Years🌙 Night 1 — Daiwa Roynet Hotel Fukuyama Ekimae
After checking in and opening the room window — Fukuyama Castle, brilliantly lit up, was right there!
The next morning, Gemini's plan said "09:15 visit Fukuyama Castle"… but this was good enough.
🤖 Gemini's Plan
Visit Fukuyama Castle at 09:15 the next morning — just north of the station, tour the keep and museum.
✅ What Actually Happened
Fukuyama Castle was in full view, lit up, from the Daiwa Roynet Hotel room window. Enjoyed the illumination — so skipped the morning visit.
Kasaoka City Horseshoe Crab Museum
The horseshoe crab completed its current form approximately 200 million years ago (Mesozoic Era) and has barely changed since — a "living fossil." Taxonomically, it is actually an arthropod closer to spiders and scorpions than to crabs. The three major habitats are Delaware Bay in North America, the coasts of Southeast Asia, and Japan (with the Kasaoka coast as a representative site); the tidal flats of the Kasaoka coast are designated as a national natural monument "Horseshoe Crab Breeding Ground." This museum, opened in 1990, is the world's only museum dedicated to horseshoe crabs, with the building itself shaped like one. Inside, live adult and juvenile specimens are on display; the Dinosaur Park on the grounds features 8 life-size dinosaurs of 7 species. One fascinating fact: horseshoe crab blood is blue — thanks to copper-containing hemocyanin. A blood component used in the "LAL test" checks injectable drugs and medical devices for safety worldwide. A vivid reminder of how remarkable living things truly are.
🦀 200 Million Years · World's Only Horseshoe Crab Museum · Blue Blood🤖 Gemini's Plan
Take the bus (Ikasa Bus Kamishima Line) from Kasaoka Station. Strict timetable management — return bus described as "absolutely non-negotiable."
✅ What Actually Happened
Found a rental bicycle shop right in front of Kasaoka Station! Renting one meant complete freedom from bus timetables.
Bishuya — Kasaoka Classic Ramen
Kasaoka's proud local ramen variety — "Kasaoka Ramen." The shop: Bishuya; the order: the signature "Kasaoka Classic." The clear chicken-bone soy broth is a complete contrast to yesterday's Onomichi ramen with its pork back fat — clean and refreshing on the finish. And the defining feature of Kasaoka ramen: chicken chashu — pork is not used; chicken is the Kasaoka way. After pedaling a bicycle, that light, clean broth seeped gently into every tired muscle.
🍜 Bishuya "Kasaoka Classic" · Chicken Chashu is the Kasaoka Style
Kimuraya — Shu Roll · Strawberry Roll · Takana Salad Roll
A long-established bakery, "Kimuraya," close to Kasaoka Station. Bought three varieties as snacks for the Sunrise Izumo: a cream-filled shu roll, a strawberry roll, and a takana (pickled mustard greens) salad roll. The shu roll with its generous cream filling and the sweet-tangy strawberry roll were both delicious — but the best thing of this entire trip was, surprisingly, the takana salad roll. Its gentle saltiness and the flavor of takana melted into the dough, resetting the palate after so many sweet things. "I want to eat this again," slipped out before I knew it.
🥇 Best of the Trip: Takana Salad Roll
Super Sento Yurara
After cycling all around Kasaoka, soak tired legs thoroughly in a variety of baths. "Yurara," a 5-min walk from the "Honjo" bus stop, is an affordable facility (sauna course ¥750) with open-air baths, hinoki cypress baths, Jacuzzis, and more. In the open-air bath set at 34°C, a medicated bath using herbs from Tomonoura's famous "Homyo-shu" herbal liqueur awaits — a unique touch. Two types of sauna are also available: a 90°C dry sauna and a salt sauna, both well-regarded among sauna enthusiasts. For an hour and a half, the sense of everything melting from the soles of my feet upward — two days' worth of walking fatigue completely gone. Gemini's decision to build a spa facility into the late itinerary was quite right.
♨️ Open-Air · Herb Bath · 2 Types of Sauna — Total Trip Reset
Kurashiki — Bikan District & Ebisu Arcade
In 1642, Kurashiki became a directly administered "Tenryo" domain under the Shogunate, nurturing a culture independent of the Okayama domain. Along the Kurashiki River, white-walled "namako-kabe" storehouses, lattice-fronted merchant houses, and rows of willows have been preserved as the "Bikan Historic Quarter" since 1969, designated a National Important Traditional Buildings Preservation District in 1979. The city's landmark, the Ohara Museum of Art, opened in 1930 — Japan's first private Western art museum — displaying masterpieces including El Greco's "The Annunciation" and Monet's "Water Lilies." The renovated former Kurashiki Spinning Mill, "Kurashiki Ivy Square," also sits within the district — its ivy-clad brick buildings evoking the Meiji era. Arriving at dusk, my eyes met a scene like a painting: crimson sky and white walls reflected in the canal. Then, walking Ebisu shopping arcade to pass time before the Sunrise Izumo departed — the unpretentious, lived-in atmosphere of the old arcade warmed me at the journey's end.
🌆 Tenryo White Walls · Ohara Museum · Canal at Dusk — Pure Art
Dinner — Miso Katsu Umeno-ki
The last meal in Kurashiki before boarding the Sunrise Izumo: the miso katsu specialty restaurant "Umeno-ki." Founded in 1980, this shop has its own distinct "miso katsu" tradition separate from Nagoya's version. The distinguishing cooking method: pork tenderloin coated in fresh breadcrumbs, cooked not by deep-frying but by pan and oven. The result is light and easy to eat, topped with a time-honored secret sweet miso sauce unchanged since opening. Sweet-savory miso aroma, the crisp texture of the crust, tender meat — rice keeps disappearing. The two days' worth of fatigue from cycling in Kasaoka and walking the Bikan district melted away with the piping-hot set meal. The perfect high-volume final meal to close the journey.
🍱 Est. 1980 · Pan-Baked Pork × Secret Sweet Miso Sauce
🌙 Limited Express Sunrise Izumo — Dep. Kurashiki 21:58 → Tokyo
As overnight trains ("Blue Trains") that once ran across Japan were discontinued one by one, one regular sleeper express remains in service — the "Sunrise Izumo." The 285 series EMU began service in July 1998. Unlike locomotive-hauled trains, it's an electric multiple unit sleeper train; even the interior design involved Sekisui House, bringing residential expertise to the cabin. Room types range from Single Deluxe, Single, Solo, Sunrise Twin, and Nobi-Nobi seats (carpet-style open berths bookable with just a seat fee — the budget option). Of the 14 cars, cars 8–14 are Sunrise Izumo (bound for Izumo-shi), splitting from Sunrise Seto (bound for Takamatsu) at Okayama. Departing Kurashiki at 21:58 — the cream-colored body with wine-red stripes glided into the platform. "Tokyo" glowing on the destination board. Luggage stowed in the B-class private berth, munching on Kimuraya's takana salad roll while watching the night Setouchi pass by. Rocked by the steady rhythm of the wheels, sleep came before I knew it. When I woke, the Tokai morning landscape filled the window. Arriving Tokyo the next morning — a ~12-hour overnight journey. Onomichi, Tomonoura, Kasaoka, Kurashiki — a packed 2-day trip closed like a dream.
🎓 Trip Lessons — What We Learn from AI Plans vs. Reality
Tourist Attractions Can Be Visible From Your Hotel Room
Gemini planned "visit Fukuyama Castle at 09:15 the next morning," but Fukuyama Castle was fully visible, illuminated, from the Daiwa Roynet Hotel room. AI has no information about "what you can see from which hotel." Once your accommodation is booked, check the location yourself — you may get an unexpected bonus.
Local Transport Options Can Be More Flexible Than AI Assumes
Gemini worked backwards from bus timetables and created a tight schedule with warnings about "the plan falls apart if you miss the return bus." But there was a rental bicycle shop right in front of Kasaoka Station — rent one and you're completely free from bus times. Information about "what local transport options exist" tends to be incomplete in AI searches. Ask at local tourist offices or station staff and you'll find options AI doesn't know.
The Choice to Take an Electric-Assist Bicycle Is Only Possible On-Site
The road to the Horseshoe Crab Museum has a hill — this wasn't explicitly stated in the Gemini plan or on maps. You can manage with a regular bicycle, but electric-assist is dramatically easier. Detailed terrain information like "is there a hill?" is often only learned by asking at the local rental shop. When in doubt, choose the electric-assist bicycle — this is knowledge you can only get on the ground.
AI Plans Are the "Map" — On-Site Judgment Is the "Compass"
AI-generated plans make an excellent starting point. Instantly organizing the overall flow, travel times, and dining spot candidates — that capability is genuinely useful. But the real joy of travel is taking that plan in hand, going to the place yourself, and discovering "what wasn't written in the plan" with your own eyes and feet. Trust the AI plan, but prioritize information from the ground and move flexibly. That's the smart way to travel with AI — a lesson this trip reinforced.
📍 Route Map & Navigation Info
Enter the address or coordinates into your car navigation or smartphone map app.
🗺 Open Full Route in Google Maps
▶ Day 1 — Onomichi · Tomonoura
Senkoji Park Observatory
📍 20-2 Higashitsuchidocho, Onomichi, Hiroshima
🌐 34.4107, 133.1975
Google Maps →Bakery Koro (Pan-ya Koro)
📍 3-31 Tsuchido 1-chome, Onomichi, Hiroshima
🌐 34.4064, 133.1974
Google Maps →Fukuzenji Taicho-ro (Tomonoura)
📍 2 Tomo, Tomocho, Fukuyama, Hiroshima
🌐 34.3830, 133.3833
Google Maps →Tomonoura Joya-to Lighthouse
📍 843-1 Tomo, Tomocho, Fukuyama, Hiroshima
🌐 34.3824, 133.3808
Google Maps →Daiwa Roynet Hotel Fukuyama
📍 2-16 Sannomaru-cho, Fukuyama, Hiroshima
🌐 34.4885, 133.3617
Google Maps →▶ Day 2 — Kasaoka · Kurashiki
* Addresses and coordinates are for reference. Please verify before visiting.